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Freeride and jibbing: jumps, tricks and choosing your MTB 0
Mountain biker jumping on a woodland trail

Image generated using AI.

You’re at the bike park, repeating your favourite jumps, when the group stops at a spot for a longer session. Someone is practising manuals, someone else is trying a spin, and everyone has another idea to try. One day on the bike can involve plenty of different riding.

Freeride, jib and jibbing all turn up in descriptions of bikes for these sessions. What do they mean, and what should you know before choosing an MTB?

How do freeride and jibbing fit together?

Freeride includes riding terrain with descents, jumps and drops. There’s room for tricks and for finding your own way down a line. It isn’t limited to huge jumps or getting to the bottom as quickly as possible.

Jibbing means getting creative with the bike and the features around you: a manual along part of a trail, a bunny hop over an obstacle, a spin or several movements linked into one run. You might session one spot or add these moves as you ride.

Jibbing can be part of freeride. You can also jib on trails or local features, provided the spot and the bike are suitable. The terms overlap, but they don’t mean exactly the same thing.

You don’t need to settle on one label. It helps more to know what you want from the bike.

Repeating jumps or finding a move in every section?

On a familiar jump, you can work on your take-off, position in the air and landing. Knowing the feature makes it easier to focus on a particular part of the run.

With jibbing, even a familiar trail can give you another idea. You could ride a section normally, manual it or use it for a hop. The fun comes from finding something to try and learning to do it.

Both can happen on the same run. Differences between bikes still matter, though: a model built around demanding descents can handle differently from one designed mainly for tricks.

Which mountain bike should you choose for jumps and tricks?

Start with where you actually ride. Shaped jumps, rough mountain descents and practising spins ask different things of a bike. If you want to combine them, check that the model you’re considering is intended for that use.

When comparing bikes, look at:

  • The manufacturer’s intended use. Sharing a shop category doesn’t mean every bike is suitable for the same features.
  • Size and geometry. You need room to move and a position that lets you control the bike. The smallest frame won’t automatically be the best for tricks.
  • Suspension. Its design and setup should suit your weight and riding. More travel alone doesn’t settle the choice.
  • Drivetrain and saddle position. These matter particularly if you regularly pedal back to the start of the trail.

Full suspension helps absorb impacts at the rear wheel too. A hardtail has a rigid rear end, so your legs do more of that work. Some hardtails are intended for freeride, but neither a rigid rear end nor full suspension confirms what a bike can handle. Check the particular model.

When might this type of bike be the wrong fit?

If you spend most of your time on long rides and climbs, a bike focused mainly on jumps or tricks may involve compromises. Weight, tyres, riding position and gear range all affect pedalling. A single-speed drivetrain may suit sessions on features but make longer climbs harder.

For riding that combines climbs with demanding descents, compare enduro mountain bikes too.

If you mainly want a bike for dirt jumps and pump tracks, browse our dirt jump bikes. Jibbing describes a way of riding; it doesn’t mean every trick needs a specialist full-suspension MTB.

Compare mountain bikes at RMDBike

Our mountain bikes suit different types of riding. Compare their intended use, geometry and equipment against the places you ride.

If you’re choosing between models, tell us where you ride, what you want to practise and whether you use a lift or pedal to the top. That tells us more about your needs than “I’m looking for a freeride bike”.

Before your first ride

Before its first ride, the bike must have an initial inspection at a professional bike workshop. This is a paid service. Keep the record and read the instructions and warranty terms supplied with your bike.

Not every workshop sets up and services suspension or hydraulic brakes. Before booking, check that it works on your model’s equipment and has the experience and tools needed.

Wear a well-fitting helmet and suitable protective pads. Read our important information before buying and using a bike too.

Questions about freeride and jibbing

What does jibbing mean on a mountain bike?

It means riding creatively with the bike and the features around you, using moves such as manuals, hops and spins. It can be part of a trail ride or a separate session at one spot.

Can one bike suit freeride and jibbing?

Yes, the two can overlap. Check that the manufacturer intends the particular model for your planned descents, jumps and tricks. Bikes in the same category don’t necessarily have the same capabilities.

Do you need full suspension for freeride?

Not always. Some hardtails are intended for freeride. The choice depends on the terrain, the features you plan to ride and the intended use of the particular bike.

Can you ride regular MTB trails on a jib bike?

It depends on the model. Some combine tricks with trail riding; others are more specialised. If you also plan longer pedalling, check the gear range, saddle position and manufacturer’s guidance.

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